Economics in Action

One thing that I've noticed time and again is that no shop stands alone here in the Kingdom. For every new store opened, another similar store opens right next door. What you end up with is five shoe stores in a row, three curtain stores right next to each other, and mall upon mall on every street corner in Riyadh.

My micro economics Professor would explain this phenomenon as a general rule of thumb. Whenever a particular industry is proven profitable more vendors will flood the market until the industry once again reaches equilibrium. And what you're left with is shoppers paradise.

A majority of the markets that I have seen specialize in a small number of items. One market I visited right near downtown only carried shoes, thobes, and incense, with a couple of sporadic antique stalls along the way.

My favorite market by far though-- the camel market. The only thing you can get there is Camels and camel accessories such as saddles. My Dad and I drove to the outskirts of the capital, past all the weekend amusement parks (of which there are many) to explore. What we found were hundreds of camels in all kinds of colors and sizes. I have included some pictures for your viewing pleasure, I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.

Wedding Update!!!

Can I just say- wow!

I had a lot of expectations running through my head as I walked into the Riyadh Four Seasons hotel in a borrowed $2,000 dress but nothing could have prepared me for this. Everywhere I looked were the most beautiful women I have ever seen, in over the top, extravagant dresses and dripping in jewels. I stood there, mouth agape, in awe watching as these women who had clearly spent hours getting ready strutted around the room like peacocks. I felt as if I had found my way onto a movie set and couldn't wait to see the show.

For a majority of the time I just sat observing the way in which the women interacted with one another. Some were definitely making appraisals on one another but for the most part they were just enjoying the chance to get gussied up, dance, and enjoy one another's company.

There was a live band performing the typical Arabic wedding songs (which are awesome :) ) as everyone lined up to dance. The Arabic style of dancing is more like a two lined snazzy walk, definitely different from the booty shaking I'm used to!

I attended the wedding with four of my aunts and a handful of cousins so I had plenty of company and people to explain the whole extravaganza. I also ran into some lovely ladies I met at a dinner last week who are adamant that I visit with them and teach them English (or at least I think that's what they were saying!).

I am happy to say that after all of the stress about the wedding I actually had a really nice time :) Oh and only two comments were made about my arm hair, all in all I'd say it was a great success!

Oh and I'm going to try and post some pictures in the next day or two so be sure to check back!!!

Hair or no hair, apparently this is a huge question. . .

Yesterday was a long day. I finally caved in and let my stepmother drag me to a salon to have my eyebrows "done". Today I feel somewhat like an overly primped poodle.

In the U.S. it wasn't uncommon for me to receive compliments on my eyebrows (I know, weird). Random people, like the lady at Starbucks or the woman in the mall would comment on how much they liked my eyebrows and how I should never change them. They would be sorely disappointed in me.

Since I arrived in the kingdom, not a day has gone by without my being harassed over seemingly trivial things like my eyebrows and arm hair. I have been warned repeatedly by the members of my family that since I refuse to shave my arms I will become the object of serious ridicule to all the girls I meet here in S.A.. Rough.

Tonight I am going to a wedding where hundreds of girls will be in attendance. I fully expect to be made fun of relentlessly, I guess its a good thing I suck at Arabic after all, because I am making a stand here. I will not shave my arms, nor will I wax them, or bleach them. I have drawn the line with my eyebrows.

This may seem silly to you all, and it does to me as well. But its more than just silly because it goes beyond hair. It extends to the way I dress, the jewelry I wear (or don't wear) the way I wear my hair, the way I do my makeup. There is a level of vanity amongst some of the women here that I am finding extremley surprising. I can't help but wonder if the constriction of the abbayya is causing this unreasonable lash back.

Not that America is in any way above vanity but outside of elementary school I have never personally experienced this kind of judgment based on the way I look. I guess I'm lucky in that I only have to deal with this for another month but it has given me a true appreciation for the struggles that people go through in every society, whether American or otherwise. I have a new found love for people who struggle with their weight or acne, or feel like they aren't as beautiful as they "should" be, or can't afford the "in" clothes. No matter what anyone says, you're beautiful, inside and out and it doesn't matter. It doesn't matter.

Time, what a tricky tricky mother.

To be honest I don't know how many days I've been here off hand. I don't really know what day of the week it is, or even what time it is (the sun is rising so it must be really late or early depending on how you look at it). Of course I can easily figure all of this out by simply looking at my cell phone, but there is no point in doing so. The only time I am aware of is when to eat, when to sleep, and when to pray. This is fairly typical to a Saudi Arabian summer. Once school lets out people stay up all night and sleep all day. I thought that I would miss the day time, but all you really miss out on is the unbearable sun. All stores shut down midday because no one is brave enough to venture into the desert heat.

The only real passage of time is generational. Sitting around my grandmothers table, I could actually see the passing of time in the faces and dress of the beautiful women who have lived here all of their lives. Friday lunch at my grandmothers is a tradition and the whole family makes it. My great aunts, aunts, cousins, everyone.

The older women still hold to their traditional values, donning their abbayas at all times and wearing floor length dresses in dark colors. Their hands are stained with henna and their skin is worn by the sun and hardships of life. They are mothers, daughters, sisters, aunts and wives. They fulfill each of their roles with dignity, love and respect.

Their daughters, my aunts, have broken from the tradition of their mothers. They wear bright colored dresses and from time to time black slacks. They don't hesitate to remove their abbayas once in the safety of the home. They are professional teachers and secretaries as well as mothers.

The youngest generation, the one to which I belong, are a breed of their own. They still wear the abbayas in public, but to their thinking sheila's are a thing of the past. They take pride in dressing and cutting their hair 'as the Americans do'. Unlike women of past, they are waiting to finish their educations before marrying and study subjects such as business and political science. In the future no job will be out of their reach.

The differences between the generations may seem as if it would drive them apart, but in reality it seems to draw them together. They share their strength, their beliefs, their hopes, and most of all, love. I have never had the honor to be surrounded by so many amazing women in my life.

shopping malls, monkeys and Madness!

Well, it's nothing like I thought it would be. My Mom had me a little worried but the Arabia she lived in twenty years ago has little in common with the one I'm visiting now.

The first notable difference is the highway. Dear God, if I don't die in a car accident I'll be amazed!!!! It seems like there is no such thing as rules of the road and everyone just drives like madmen. Yes men. Women are still not allowed to drive, but honestly I wouldn't want to!!! They don't stop for lights, squeeze four cars into two lanes, cut each other off like it's a contest and don't slow down for pedestrians!!! Mad!!

The Clothes are ultra conservative but only the abbaya. Underneath the women dress better than Americans (and almost as skantily). I get away with barely covering my hair and only cover my face when men are staring. I bought my own abbaya today. That was a crazy experience. Imagine the smallest store you've ever seen. Merely a stall, chalk full of women covered from head to toe in all black in the hundred degree weather (keep in mind it's past eight o'clock in the evening!) Buying you guessed it, more black :)

I don't know if many of you know this, but Saudi Arabia is the mall capital of the world! Jk I don't know that for a fact but I wouldn't be surpirsed! Every other corner is another mall. not just back alley stalls but high rises with the latest fashion. Seriously, I'm never shopping in America again.

The pet stores were the first thing that made me realize just how different this country is from America- I mean aside from the clothes and food and unbearable heat. Sadly they have never heard of animal rights here. (My brother just stared at me blankly). They keep full grown dogs in cages, sell skunks to collectors, sell monkeys and heres the clincher, they were selling what my brother called a Mountain cat. Seriously. The store we went to had a freaking mountain lion in a tiny cage. :( It was going crazy, hissing at the children who ventured to put their noses up against the glass.

Otherwise everything has been incredible! I'm adjusting really well and can't wait to see what happens next!

Farewell

Fare thee well friends and family. Tomorrow I embark upon the journey of a life time. I'm going home. I will travel across the Atlantic ocean to the desert land from which I came. :) I am creating this blog so that I can update people on my adventures, my trials and my lessons learned. This is a unique opportunity to really explore another culture that is so very different from our own.

As an opinionated, out spoken American woman it's hard to know what to expect. As I have been preparing to leave, saying my goodbyes, and packing what little appropriate clothing I own I have come to see that I am not the only one concerned with how I plan to get by. Many of you, the people I love most in the world, are concerned for me. Most are excited, some are scared but all are curious. Saudi Arabia for many, seems backwards, stuck in time, and downright sexist.

Over the next seven weeks I will be living in the capital city, Riyadh with my Dad, step mom, and four young siblings. (Not to mention my enormous extended family!!!) I hope that I can remain openminded and that my experiences will bring to light some truths, some false hoods, and some misunderstandings about the Saudi Arabian culture.

I love you all very much and can't wait to be with you again!